Jos Baker - BAKER'S BITES 

CAPE TIMES ****

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Modelled on the simple Italian restaurants that serve as neighbourhood dining rooms, Amore offers artisanal pastas, traditional sauces and hearty main courses. The menu changes daily, writes JOS BAKER.

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“LIFE is a combination of LOVE and PASTA. Because there is no more sincere love than the love of food, or more romantic than a simple Italian dish.”

 

This refreshing philosophy of life, distilled into a pasta shell by an Italian, is the message that greets you as you enter this authentic ristorante.

 

After weeks of indulgent winelands eating, seeking out new-look, child-friendly venues, I needed a restful break. The chance recommendation of a recently opened Italian restaurant took me to a street corner in Kenilworth – and my tastebuds rejoiced.

 

Let me explain that my knowledge of Italian food is extensive. I used to spend holidays with a cousin who headed an oil company in Genoa. He’d lend me his driver for BMW tours of Italy (the chauffeur staying at more upmarket lodgings than mine, and eating at more expensive restaurants than the neighbourhood venues my pocket favoured). Then during my years as a fashion editor, the fashion circuit took me to Italy, and finally, the wheel came full circle when I started the Italian Slow Food Movement in Cape Town.

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Unexpectedly, Kenilworth was like coming home. Home to intense, pure flavours, simple presentation, and a concise menu that changes daily and lets the food speak for itself, without elaboration. You’ll find Italy’s finest artisanal pastas, served with traditional sauces, plus tasty antipasti and hearty main courses. All packaged in an authentic owner/managed neighbourhood ristorante. The only atypical features are owners Kikko (Federico) and Dessy Di Mar, and the uncluttered, cool and restful décor, with sandblasted glass windows shielding diners from curious passers-by.

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Chef Kikko is from Rome, but lived in Africa as a child, spending a few years in Angola. He had always yearned to return. “Me, I was a bit scared to make such huge step, so Cape Town was a compromise between being in Africa and still feeling in Europe,” explains Dessy. About four years ago they “decided to do it”.

After an extensive search for premises that would accommodate a venue modelled on the simple Italian restaurants that serve as neighbourhood dining rooms, they settled on a former shoe shop in Kenilworth, opening their doors three months ago. Says a satisfied Dessy: “So here we are, feeling happy in this beautiful green city with friendly people, a mix of cultures and so many new things to discover.”

Kikko runs the kitchen single-handed (he prefers it that way) while welcoming Dessy handles front of house, all baking – and her own cake-design business on the side. Whatever you order, do allow space for the dolci. Not the obligatory gelato, but her creations. Our featherlight treat was almond cake (the “flour” some 90% almonds) with a generous ricotta and pear filling, while her Sbricciolata is as alluring as her cakes – and that’s saying something.

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After that punt for dessert, let’s be logical and begin with the starters. I can’t promise you the same selection when you dine, but I can guarantee that whatever is on the menu will be classic Roman-Italian soul food, served in a timeless classic style.

If you have the option of fresh mussels, grab it. Our fresh West Coast-sourced mussels in white wine and garlic (usually with chilli) were mouthwateringly sweet and succulent; while the fresh green salad, a simple mix of pear, grana padano cheese and walnuts, offered a typically Italian palate-pleasing contrast in texture and flavour.

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Gnocchi addicts, your primi (first course) has to be the homemade gnocchi. I admit that pre-Amore I wasn’t a fan, but after a taste of their gnocchi con gamberi e tartufo (gnocchi with prawns enveloped in mop your plate, lick your fingers cream sauce) I became an instant and ardent convert. I’ll be back for the alternative option, another timeless winner: gnocchi con gorgonzola e noci (gnocchi in a gorgonzola cheese sauce with walnuts).

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As for secondi; besides classic saltimbocca di pollo (chicken breast fillets with prosciutto in a light sauce of white wine and sage) and hearty spezziatino con patate (potato-filled, slowly cooked beef stew), there’s another standout course. Savour free-range, cut-with-a-fork lamb chops so tender that they beg biting from the bone, marinated in spices and served with sautéed potatoes. You’ll leave contentedly well-filled.